Pahalgam Kashmir - Land of valleys and meadows

Intro
Pahalgam is a hill station and small town in Anantnag District of Jammu & Kashmir around 98 kms from Srinagar the summer capital. The 2-day famous Amarnath Yatra to Holy Cave and magical ice formed Shivling starts from Pahalgam(Chandanwadi).

How to reach
Delhi to Jammu (620 kms) - via train or buses or flight.   http://www.ixigo.com/trains/JammuTawi-JAT
Jammu to Khanabal (240 kms) - via bus or private taxi
Khanabal (Anantnag Sumo Stand) to Pahalgam (40 kms) - via shared taxis
OR
Delhi to Srinagar - via flight
Srinagar to Pahalgam (98 kms) - via state buses or private taxi

Places to visit
Chandanwadi Glacier
Betaab Valley
Aru valley - Baisaran meadows
Golf Course
Mammal Shiv temple

My diary

Day 5 and we headed towards Pahalgam,a small town in Anantnag District. We left Srinagar early morning around 5.30 am to cover approx 100 kms and passed by Khannabal at 6.30, Aishmugam at 7.30. Our car brakes failed at Aishmugam so we left the driver there to get the car repaired and took a local jeep to Pahalgam which was around 16 kms and reached by 9.30.

While entering the town  there is a bridge on Lidder River, the water current  is turbulent and river appears completely white raging over small rocks and boulders.

Pahalgam is a small town with  few gardens, hotels, a police station.
We headed straight towards the golf course which you see towards right. It is also one of the highest golf courses in the world. They charge around Rs 150 for an hour to play and if you want clubs then they charge another Rs 100.

 The golf course wasn't open yet, anyways we had no intention to play, just wanted to have a look as we had to cover lot of places.

Towards the right, we taking the shortcut by avoiding the road and  sliding straight down the hill from golf course back towards the town.

We again crossed the bridge, took some snaps at this location shown below and headed towards taxi stand. All tourists have to take a taxi here to see Chandanwadi and Betaab Valley as outside vehicles are not allowed.

 

Just opposite to rest house is Mammal temple. This Siva temple is on the right bank of River Lidder and is 8 square feet internally and has a porch supported on two columns. It's an ancient temple dating back to 5th century AD.

We hired a maruti van for Rs 600 to visit Chandanwadi Glacier and Betaab Valley. Now Chandanwadi Glacier is the starting point or base camp for Amarnath Yatra and it takes around two days to reach to the holy cave  where the magical ice shivling gets formed inside the holy cave. The yatra starts around late June and continues till late Sep or early Oct.

If you are interested you can visit this
http://www.amarnathyatra.org/



Even though the distance between Pahalgam and Chandanwari is 16kms it takes close to 50 mins due to terrible road. Reached around 12 and roamed around on Glacier for an hour or so. The river flowing out of a huge ice boulder.

The pic on right shows the river on one side and the bottom pic shows the river entering the boulder on other side. So we trekked over this huge ice boulder to reach the other side.

 While crossing the small glacier we  took the dangerous patch where the ice sheets were thin  and chances of a fall were high. Anyways two policemen followed us from the other side to warn us but we had already crossed by the time they reached us. We didn't notice them and got caught there doing some mischief but finally convinced them

Betaab Valley (top), you must be thinking quite a filmy name right- yes it actually got it's name from the Bollywood movie Betaab starring Sunny Deol and Amrita Singh. Sunny deol's farmhouse and major part of the movie was shot here. Lidder river loses it's flow passing through this plain valley and water color changes from white to greenish making the top view of the valley simply delightful. For a better comparison see the left side snap which shows the Lidder river just 4 kms upstream and compare how it transforms from being completely whitish wild (left) to greenish serene(top).

We reached back  Pehelgam around 2 and then took up an hotel named "Pahalgam Hotel". Our balcony view (top) of Lidder valley and high peaks with gusting sound of rough Lidder was just perfect. By the way the nice view room cost us just Rs 600 for the day.

Got fresh quickly and were ready  for our next trek to Baisaran Meadow by 3.30 in afternoon. Locals guided us through the way and it was around 7 kms from Pahalgam but the climb was really steep. It was the first time in Kashmir trip I had to take breaks to gather my breath so I would advise travelers to either take it slow or take the horse. The trek was so steep that we were not able to click anything on the way. Finally 1.5 hr of struggle paid off and we emerged out onto this beautiful lush green meadow, a perfect picnic spot.

I really enjoyed the walk barefoot on the grass enjoying the peaks all around and even took a short nap.

We started moving on a different route from here and this was long around 12 kms but an easy trek. It started getting dark around 5.30 and we were still very far from Pahalgam somewhere in deep forests. Our common sense got the better of us and we started following a group of ponnie boys waiting here and there for some snaps.

This trek was really nice and we passed through a stream (top) and a gujjar village(left). Local boys with horses advised us to move fast as it might be dangerous if night falls with wild animals and some locals around that place. It took us around 2 hrs to descend and by the time we reached  hotel it was around 8.

So this was our day 6 of Kashmir trip in Pahalgam. Tiring in terms of trekking but a pleasant adventure.

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Sonamarg Kashmir - Heaven on Earth

Intro
Sonamarg is a hill station and small town in Ganderbal District of Jammu & Kashmir around 90 kms from Srinagar the summer capital. Sonamarg (hindi meaning - "meadow of gold") is a trekkers paradise with rowdy Sindh River alongside in the backdrop of snowy mountain peaks. It falls on the the Srinagar-Leh National Highway 1D and is at an altitude of 3000m. The 5-day Amarnath Yatra also starts from Sonamarg.


How to reach
Delhi to Jammu (620 kms) - via train or buses or flight.   http://www.ixigo.com/trains/JammuTawi-JAT
Jammu to Srinagar (300 kms) - via bus or private taxi or flight
Srinagar to Sonamarg (90 kms) - via state buses or private taxi
OR
Delhi to Srinagar - via flight
Srinagar to Sonamarg (90 kms) - via state buses or private taxi

Places to visit
Sonamarg Thajiswar Glacier
Sonamarg Gangabal trek
Krishnasar Lake - trout fishing

My Diary


Our day 5 in Jammu $ Kashmir and we had planned for Sonmarg and Thajiswar Glacier which falls on the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh Highway (NH -1D) around 80 kms from Srinagar. So like always, enthusiast travelers we are, we hit the roads by 7.40 morning.

Our breakfast point was just beside this bridge on river Chenab a place called Wayul at around 8.30.It was a very small place with a police check post and few restaurants. We stopped by here because of this bridge and fast flowing Chenab River.

We filled ourselves with north Indian national breakfast alu paratha's n hot tea. 

 Around 9:15 while we were passing through  Kalgan we noticed raft boats on a truck and a small office, without further delay we jumped off to check out. Got a good deal 300 rs per
head for 6kms of white water rafting. They took us upstream to the starting point and we jumped into our life jackets ready to experience
the thrill. The experience was value for money as the stretch had around 20-25 rapids and by the time we finished we were drenched atleast a
dozen times. I enjoyed the ride and my bravado with one hand gripping the raft but the river was a quite a rowdy I should say.

Crossed Sarfawara Hydraulic Power              
Station over river Sindh at around 10.45 and all along the road we had either Chenab or Sindh flowing along our side.The snow covered peaks appeared quite close now.
    My friend meanwhile was so much mesmerized by the scenery that he started writing a story. His three pages outlining the foundation of this trip, traversed from his work and chennai city frustration to the serenity and calmness he expected to get out of here. I still have that story in my notes.








 We passed through Gund at around 10.50 and Kulan at around 11.15. This snap above shows the river Sindh current at Kulan, frightening huh. It seemed to be the perfect location for a thrilling white water rafting
but as a matter of fact Indian Govt doesn't allow life-threatening sports to tourists without proper certification

 Finally we reached Sonmarg at 11.45. It took us 4 hrs from Srinagar because of rafting and breakfast stops but it's usually a 2.5 hr ride as there are rough patches in the National Highway.
   These are the camping grounds, and I am not sure if they all are for tourists but atleast some of them are.
   FYI this is the place from where the 5-day Amarnath Yatra starts that is the longer one, the shorter one starts from Pehelgam (Chandanwadi Glacier). The yatra from here starts around mid June and continues till end October.

 So here we were at Sonmarg all set to start our trek for Thajiswar Glacier. There were lot of horse and ponny guys persuading tourists to take horses, but we decided to take it on foot. It's just a 4 km pleasant trek and unless you have reached here late in afternoon or u are not capable of hiking, take my advice on it you should do this mesmerizing trek on foot and it will be a lifetime experience.







So this was the exact moment a great philosopher said


 "You can't ask for more from Nature"
                                               Viky

and then, I captured  that moment for eternity and now I am doing the same
with the quote.

Feeling like a bird, just needed the wings

The trek continued and we kept on getting startled by the sheer beauty of Kashmir pondering over how much nature had in store.

We were spellbound by the snow clad-en peaks, the hustling river, the green meadows, the rocky terrain even the horses and birds, that's how I will define "serenity"

 This was our lunch spot beside the river on a big rock. We didn't carry any stuff so had to compromise with maggi, chips and soft-drinks from a nearby shop. This was kind of mid-point and some cars (local jeeps with permit for Thajiswar wildlife sanctuary) could come till this point, beyond this the terrain was very rocky for any vehicle.
    We relaxed here for an hour or so, clicked some snaps and then around 2.30 started off towards the Glacier.

Though it was a wildlife sanctuary we just managed to see two animals apart from horses, a sheep and a small reptile i guess somewhere between snake and lizard.

Another 45 mins of slow trek and we touched the base of thajiswar glacier, we weren't too excited about climbing the snow because we already did that yesterday so lied down on grass after quenching our thirst with freshly melted water.  Neither Himalaya nor Aquafina could have beaten that taste of water.

 As we were about to climb up suddenly the weather turned against us and it started raining. We took refuge in tea shop where some locals offered us hukka along with hot tea.

They asked us if we were coming from "Hindustan" as if pakistani's were frequent visitors there, but then I realized later that he meant we were not from Kashmir.

 In the meanwhile we decided to hike back as we were getting late and there were chances of heavy rainfall. We had just started and it started snowing, it took some time for my friends to realize it's snow as it was quite thin. Got to see 15 mins of snowfall too in the trip.

Not even did the weather clear up in half an hour but it actually turned up quite well so we even enjoyed the return hike which normally is not the case.

Met an Army troop on the way back

We noticed this house or cottage on the way back and wished we could have one as our vacation home.

The location of this cottage was just awesome with snow-claden peaks in the backdrop and gusting river alongside.
































This was the end of our day 5 and it was one of the most memorable days in terms of natural beauty we witnessed.

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Gulmarg Kashmir - Reaching close to POK

Intro
Gulmarg is a hill station in Baramulla District of Jammu & Kashmir around 50 kms from Srinagar the summer capital. Gulmarg (hindi meaning - "meadow of flowers") is famous for it's skiing slopes in winters and lush green meadows in summer and autumn, with a beautiful 18-hole golf-course supposedly the highest golf course in the world at an altitude of 2700m.


How to reach
Delhi to Jammu (620 kms) - via train or buses or flight.   http://www.ixigo.com/trains/JammuTawi-JAT
Jammu to Srinagar (300 kms) - via bus or private taxi or flight
Srinagar to Gulmarg via Tangmarg (56 kms) - via state buses or private taxi
OR
Delhi to Srinagar - via flight
Srinagar to Gulmarg via Tangmarg (56 kms) - via state buses or private taxi

Places to visit
18-hole golf course at Gulmarg
Gondola ride - can view Nanga Parbat(PoK) and LOC from topmost point of Gondola
Alpather Lake (the frozen lake)
Baba Reshi Shrine - dargah
Nigni Nala - small stream flowing from other side (PoK) of border
Khilanmarg - skiing during winter season

My Diary

This was our fourth day of Jammu Kashmir Trip and we were headed to Gulmarg, a hill station in Baramulla District, very close to POK(Azad Kashmir name given by Pakistan). This time we were quick and started off around 6-30 morning and stopped by at Tangmarg for breakfast at around 8.


This is the view from Tangmarg our breakfast stoppage and the snow claden peaks we see far off is Gulmarg where we are headed to. The Army Jawans with their AK's, bomb detecting tools and sniffer dogs were pretty active over here. This was contrary to Srinagar City where BSF was stationed inside city for security.









Anyways we got this small stream with chilled water flowing by near our breakfast point so we spent some time clicking pics and sprinkling water on our faces to kick-start ourselves for the day ahead.

It took us around 2.5 hrs including breakfast time to reach base from where Gulmarg ascent was around 9kms. This is the pic which shows the ascent. Now meanwhile we got one or two snow shoes and a jacket even though the temperatures were pretty decent just in case it turns cold while we reach the top.
 We reached Gulmarg and were fooled into taking horses by locals stating  large distances to reach the Apharwat Range. We usually take the foot and it was just 6 kms from Gulmarg which we got to know midway.



   
Khilanmarg (meaning - a place to play) a highland meadow is famous for  winter games mostly skiing from Nov-Mar when they are covered with snow. Lot of skiing competitions are held during that season.

Khilanmarg offers an unparalleled view of Apharwat peaks which leads to alpathar lake the frozen lake.



















On the way up we met an artificial
stream with loads of English trout fishes. My unsuccessful attempt to get hold of one of them :(    

My friend wanted a Rajendra Kumar style pose over the bridge with Apharwat range in backdrop.
I guess he imagined himself to be a bollywood 60's era superstar for that moment.

Anyways we continued with our horse rides passing between devdar trees,taking a few breaks here and there. So in the meanwhile we were chatting with
the locals who were with the horses. Around 8kms
from where we were there is frozen lake called
Alpathar Lake which stays frozen till mid June and
that is one of the main terrorist entry points who cross over from PoK to India. Due to this, there are
heavy troops of Army over here and it is considered to be one of the sensitive borders but there was no fight on this (Baramulla) border during 1999 Kargil
War.

A 1.5 hr horse ride and we were at the table top. It actually gives the appearance of table top with all the surrounding peaks smaller and has vast plain lands.

The locals here earn their living via tourism or they are shepherds
(gujjars).

Local Kashmiri boy who was with my horse. Was able to get lot of information about surroundings, peak season, source of income and terrorism from him.

We reached the peak and this was the most we were allowed to climb. The topmost part we can see from here is the Indian Army Border posts and
on the next range after this is the Azad Kashmir or PoK. We played around here for an hour or so, it wasn't so cold but still it was quite a relief after Delhi and Jammu more importantly we were able to get snow in the month of June.

We along with Aziz and Shafqat sledge pullers over here. They gave us a nice ride down on their sledges at a heavily discounted rate.

 On the way back to Gulmarg this was the view
from the table top. We can see Khilanmarg large green meadows down.

Trekking towards the glacier passing through grasslands and boulders.


We had to miss out the Alpathar Lake as it was quite far from here and we didn't have too much time on hand.

On our way back we stopped by at Nigni Nala, a small chilled water stream. This stream flows from melting snow and ice on Apharwat peak and Alpathar Lake.

This stream originates from PoK and flows down the valley before it meets Jhelum River in Sopur.
The water was ice chilled understandably as it had
just melted around 8 kms back. We spent half and hour over here playing around then
left for Gulmarg.

This is the Gulmarg Golf Course. It is the world's highest 18-hole green golf course which entices golfers from all over the world throughout summers till autumn.

On our way back from glacier to Gulmarg we took a different route and were down near the car parking at around 4 in evening. Visited a siva temple nearby after having hot rajma-chawal. This was the end of our Gulamarg Trip.

On our way back from Gulmarg to Srinagar we stopped by at an apple tree plantation at around 6. Got the opportunity to see small apples protected with nets.

Reached back  Srinagar around 7.30 and this was the end of our not so tiring day 4.

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